August 8th, 2019
I stayed at Sams and in the morning did some errands like insurance, oil change, car wash, food etc. Funnily enough the travel insurance doesn't cover rock climbing or mountaineering but it does cover hiking. When I asked what differentiates hiking from mountaineering and mountaineering from rock climbing the agent had to call someone for some support. Apparently the distinction is when a helmet, crampons, ice axe or rope is involved, that is the limit to which they will cover. When I remarked that forgoing these items would make the activity more dangerous, but technically keep it under compliance of the insurance company they didn't have an answer. Just a funny technicality I guess. I told them I was only going hiking.
After some work, Sam got off work and we headed to Lumberton / Moyie Canyon to do some rock climbing. We had a quick dinner and were at the crag by 6:00. We chose the closest wall since we didn't want to spend a long time and chose the one immediately adjacent to the parking lot down a bumpy dirt road (Canadian Boulders? Can't quite remember the name). This area was short, about 8-10m and had 5 climbs with 3 being 5.9, a 5.10b and a 5.11+ top rope. This mention there were very few bolts (2-3 with the exception of one 5.9 that had only 1). We chose the middle 5.9 with 2 bolts and Sam went on lead first. It was a tricky beginning that required a comitting layback and then working in to an awkward off width for the first clip but after that it was fairly straightforward and the top was a humongous ledge to sit on. Definitely think the first move was harder than 5.9, maybe 5.10a/b but it was short so maybe its fair.
Next we moved to the longest (3 bolts, wow!) 5.9 on the left and I lead that first followed by Sam on toprope. The route was some reachy jugs in to an easy slab finish but took me a minute or two to figure. Sam went and had some great success but I scared her off the wall when I told her she might swing if she fell (I was right but probably should have just kept quiet). She hadn't climbed in a while and was tired so I climbed the adjacent 5.10b on toprope to clean my gear. Once again the 5.9 move felt a bit harder than it was rated but was very short. The 5.10b seemed to be similar levels but I was on toprope for that so I my have been biased.
We packed up and went back to her place for the evening.
After some work, Sam got off work and we headed to Lumberton / Moyie Canyon to do some rock climbing. We had a quick dinner and were at the crag by 6:00. We chose the closest wall since we didn't want to spend a long time and chose the one immediately adjacent to the parking lot down a bumpy dirt road (Canadian Boulders? Can't quite remember the name). This area was short, about 8-10m and had 5 climbs with 3 being 5.9, a 5.10b and a 5.11+ top rope. This mention there were very few bolts (2-3 with the exception of one 5.9 that had only 1). We chose the middle 5.9 with 2 bolts and Sam went on lead first. It was a tricky beginning that required a comitting layback and then working in to an awkward off width for the first clip but after that it was fairly straightforward and the top was a humongous ledge to sit on. Definitely think the first move was harder than 5.9, maybe 5.10a/b but it was short so maybe its fair.
Next we moved to the longest (3 bolts, wow!) 5.9 on the left and I lead that first followed by Sam on toprope. The route was some reachy jugs in to an easy slab finish but took me a minute or two to figure. Sam went and had some great success but I scared her off the wall when I told her she might swing if she fell (I was right but probably should have just kept quiet). She hadn't climbed in a while and was tired so I climbed the adjacent 5.10b on toprope to clean my gear. Once again the 5.9 move felt a bit harder than it was rated but was very short. The 5.10b seemed to be similar levels but I was on toprope for that so I my have been biased.
We packed up and went back to her place for the evening.
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| The first 5.9 we hopped on |
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| Me "free-soloing" the 1 bolt 5.9 on the right |
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